Within the last 6 months, I have become interested in the Turkmen and the beautiful jewelry that their old masters have created, so I thought I would pass on some information to you.
The Republic of Turkmenistan, aka Turkmenia, is a country in Central Asia. It is bordered by Afghanistan, Iran, Uzbekistan, Kazakhistan and the Caspian Sea. It has had a long and checkered history, as armies from one empire to another decamped there. Until as recently as 1991, it was a constituent republic of the Soviet Union. Athough it is wealthy in natural resources in certain areas, most of the country is covered by the Karakum or Black Sand Desert, and are populated by many different tribes.
Turkoman jewels, which constitute a delicate art full of secrets and with a very long past, are one of the most important elements of Turkmen culture. Their works of gold and silver (much of which were made from melted down Russian rubles) produced in the past have reached the present day as masterpieces and are highly collectible. The originality of their jewelry is a distinct feature of Turkmen culture that sets it apart from other cultures of other nations. Turkmen jewelry serves different functions such as prayer boxes, hair adornment, protection, and dowry.
The products of the Turkmen art of jewelry making not only embellish women but also convey various magical meanings which are believed to protect people from the “evil eye” and diseases. They worked extensively with the gemstone of carnelian (as well as lapis and coral) which was believed to have a beneficial impact on human health. It is also tradition that those who bought and wore their jewelry would be provided with moral strength, joy and hope.
In Turkmen society, women have a special place and have always been treated with respect. National dresses for women are ornamented with embroidery, as well as decorations and embellishments of precious stones and beads.
In the past, whether it was jewelry, dress, rugs, weaponry or tents, the expression of the artist could signify age, family, tribe and social status of those who used them. These ornaments and jewels displayed differences from tribe to tribe. Whether a woman was married or not (as reflected in the Asyk design) and what tribe she belonged to could be told from her jewelry or dress.
As with many cultures today, traditions have been lost but the Turkmen today have made a great effort to maintain their history, culture, and the art of the Turkmen masters. In fact, one is not allowed to bring jewelry out of the country that was made over 60 years ago. So getting a piece of antique Turkoman jewelry that is still intact in its original form and being able to own a remarkable piece of elegance, grace, and history is quite exceptional!
As I was thinking about what to write in my blog, my mind started to wander all over the place. Then I realized that Thanksgiving Day is quickly approaching and I thought about the history of this wonderful holiday — the coming together of early American settlers and Native American Indians to celebrate the harvest. And then the light bulb went off! Why not write about the semi-precious gemstone of Turquoise which is so closely associated with Native American jewelry.
Turquoise has always been popular; however, it is enjoying a huge revival in designer jewelry and current fashion. Turquoise is available in a variety of shades of blue and green with varying degrees of matrix. Natural turquoise, an aggregate of copper aluminum phosphate hydrate, formed under heat and pressure, is often soft and porous when mined. Natural turquoise is very rare and makes up less than 3% of the worldwide market. Most of the market today consists of “stabilized” turquoise. This “soft” turquoise is infused with a clear epoxy resin and once absorbed in the rock, it permanently hardens the stone and deepens its color. Stabilized turquoise is very widely accepted by gemologists and the American Gem Trade Association (AGTA) as quality, genuine turquoise, as opposed to reconstituted or imitation turquoise.
The various colors found in turquoise result from the presence of either copper or iron. Vivid blue (such as the most prized Sleeping Beauty turquoise or Persian turquoise) is from copper and the softer green tones come from iron. Turquoise stones can also have patterns of brown, yellow ochre and black matrix which are produced from copper compounds. “True turquoise” has an opaque, waxy luster that may or may not include matrix, depending upon the type of turquoise.
When purchasing turquoise, the buyer should be aware of numerous semi-precious gemstones or products being passed off as “true turquoise.” These are some examples: Chalk turquoise, African turquoise, Yellow turquoise, White turquoise (Magnesite), Howlite, and Mountain Jade.
It is important to establish good relationships with your turquoise vendors. If you do not know the seller, it is always a good idea to ASK about possible enhancements and if the seller is selling “true turquoise”, reconstituted or imitation. Unfortunately, there are some unethical bead vendors out there who try to fool or mislead trusting customers.
Hopefully, this blog will enhance your knowledge of turquoise, increase your appreciation of this beautiful gemstone, and act as a guide in purchasing turquoise.
Yesterday, I was perusing the national and international news on the internet (my husband calls me a news junkie and rightfully so) and an article caught my eye. It was about the Tuareg people and their fight or struggle against the Mali government. So what is the big deal about that and why did I have an “ah-hah” moment? It is because the Tuareg people and their jewelry are essential to me in designing my Artifacts Collection. Had I not been wrapped up or so passionate about studying ethnic jewelry and its history, I surely would not have given this article a second glance. The word “Tuareg” would have had no meaning to me. I would have been clueless. So here is why the article is so important to me (and it also gives me the opportunity to share some history with you).
The Tuareg people are predominately nomadic people of the Sahara Desert in Africa, mostly in the northern area of Mali near Timbuktu and Kidal. They are often referred to as the “Blue Men” of the desert because their robes are dyed indigo. They live in small tribes with between 30 and 100 family members and keep camels, goats, cattle and chickens which graze the land. They are a proud race of people, famous for their fighting abilities and artwork. However, they are staring urbanization and resettlement in the face.
The Tuareg are renown for their metal and leather workings. Their distinctive markings and geometrical designs in their crosses and jewelry generally translates into protective symbolism. It is believed that the arms of the cross will disperse all evil from the individual and keep them out of harm’s way. Tuareg parents are known to give these exquisite crosses and beaded jewelry to their children when they are about to depart from home but they are worn by all as a form of good luck and protection. Jewelry from the nomadic Tuareg are handcrafted using silver and nickel and without the use of modern machinery.
While I don’t believe in using my blog as a political forum but as a jewelry designer and lover of ethnic jewelry, I have to wonder what effects government policy and sedentary lifestyles will have on the Tuareg culture, people and their traditions. Strength is so obvious in the jewelry produced by these magnificent camel-caravan people, both in the geometric designs and workmanship. I shudder to think that this strong ethnic jewelry will lose its beauty and uniqueness, and go to the way of mass marketing and production using modern technology and machinery. We have seen it happen time and time again (Kiffa Beads are a great example). Mass reproduction can so often ruin the integrity and honesty that are reflected in originals. I could go on and on for days on that subject but wisely won’t.
Of course I will continue to look for older Tuareg pieces (and even some contemporary pieces) to utilize in my jewelry designs. I hope today’s blog will give you a greater appreciation of Tuareg jewelry and invite you to check out my Artifacts Collection for Tuareg designs.
As I sign off, I have a great smile on my face because I know a Tuareg caravan will unexpectedly show up on the horizon with camels and family in tow before slowly melting into the Sahara desert again. Wow, what an image!
Many apologies for not writing a Blog in quite a while but I was extremely preoccupied with getting ready for a recent trunk show. As anyone who has ever done a trunk show knows, it can be nerve racking and filled with anxiety - did I pack everything that I will need, how many people will show up, will they like my jewelry, etc. But there is one thing that is a certainty, people are curious, enjoy learning and love to hear about what goes in creating a piece of jewelry. So this brings me to the “history of beads.” When someone shows interest in one of my necklaces from the Artifacts Collection, I purposely make myself available to give them the scoop on how, when and where the beads were made. I then go into my history and geography teacher mode. Words like “ethnic, Roman glass, Venetian trade beads, Prosser Brothers, drawn, wound, old coin silver, brass, lost wax method, African tribes, Bohemia, tradewind, whitehearts”, etc. just come flowing out of my mouth. And then all of a sudden when I come out of my passionate “history of beads” trance, my customers are smiling and using words like “really; wow; that is so interesting; incredible; love that story; and gotta have it!”
So if you have never purchased a necklace with an unusual adornment or old beads, let your curiosity and inquisitive mind take over. You might just find yourself surprised and intrigued with the process of beadmaking and become the owner of a piece of history!
Many, many thanks to all who attended and supported my trunk show and made it very successful! I am so lucky to be doing something that I truly love and have been embraced by so many wonderful customers!
Now it is time for me to get back to work, let my creative juices flow and to endeavor to write my Blog on a weekly basis. Over and out for now.
My-oh-My does time fly! Someone recently pointed out to me that I hadn’t blogged in a while and they were wondering why. Well, they were certainly right. There just seems to be a lot of stuff on my “things to do list” and I am having a hard time getting them all done in a timely manner. I do believe most people can relate. But speaking of time, I have been working on a lot of new pieces to add to my collections; however, “I keep going back in time” in most of my creations. I am absolutely nuts about old beads, pendants, and doo-dads! Now don’t get me wrong, I do love contemporary gemstones, pearls and metal beads, but I am most definitely drawn to the past if I am given a choice of having to buy ”old” versus the “new”. Every time I hold an old coin silver pendant from Afghanistan or an ancient Hebron bead made from the Dead Sea Salts, I am getting a history lesson on beadmaking, cultures, religions and superstitions, and other countries. Just imagine wearing a Turkomen silver bead on a cord that had to be smuggled out of their country or owning old Kiffa beads from Mauritania that have become increasingly rare to find! And how about having “Roman Glass” that was made centuries ago! Give me those dents and flaws (no Botox here) which were made by a villager’s hand with rudimentary tools and lots of pride over the beads we see today strung in hanks that are machine cut and made in modern factories! So you are going to see a lot of these “old world” goodies (Ethiopian crosses, brass and copper beads from African tribes, Venetian glass trade beads, Roman Glass, Bohemian glass beads, old coin silver beads from Afghanistan, India and Turkey, and collectibles from far-a-way places) incorporated into my pieces. I am sure that I will even pair them together with modern beads and gemstones on many occasions to complete a certain “look” that I am going for. So please don’t be disappointed if you see more Artifacts Collection pieces than Contemporary Collection pieces because I am in an “Indian Jones” moment right now. I always try to remember “beauty is in the eye of the beholder” and want to accommodate my clients’ different tastes in jewelry. But no matter whether it is from the Artifacts Collection or the Contemporary Collection, it will surely be one-of-a-kind, made with passion and exemplies the “Dare to be Different Jewelry Designs” style!
Spring is finally here and I am feeling very creative – so NEW ADDITIONS have just arrived! Although, there never seems to be enough time in the day to just indulge in my passion of creating jewelry. As the warm weather approaches, I am thinking about the baby blue sky, bright rays from the sun, coastal breeze, sandy beaches, flip-flops and Jimmy Buffet’s favorite liquid concoction. So naturally, you will be seeing a lot of coral and seashells (both organic and sterling silver) and a whole bunch of freshwater pearls in my designs. But no matter what season it may be, I will always be including those hard-to-find “goodies” from those out-of-the-way foreign lands.
On another note, I have received several requests for earrings. Please do not give up on me. I will have several dozen to choose from within the next week or two. I have to rely on my hubby to photograph everything, so there is a certain amount of piecemealing that occurs. And since he has a real job, I have to catch as catch can.
Please sign up for my newsletter (the company will send you a confirmation response to your e-mail address) for upcoming specials! And don’t forget, if there is something special you would like for me to create, just drop me a line. Comments are always welcomed!
So stay tuned for the “earrings” and of course, many more necklaces! And bright spring to summer colors — lots and lots of orange, red, yellow, blue, and green. Might even throw in a bit of pink and purple, too!
As I was cleaning up my studio and reorganizing my bead boxes so I can work more efficiently, I found a box of Hill Tribe Silver Beads that I had stashed away. What a welcomed surprise! As you have noticed in my designs, I obviously love working with Hill Tribe Silver. I particularly love the fact that they are handcrafted and not machine made; each one just a little bit different from the next. Matte finish or an antique look always does for me. The high content of silver, which is usually higher than the required .925 to be considered sterling, is a real plus, too. But the most important aspect of using Hill Tribe Silver is knowing that the different tribes are handing down their techniques from generation to generation and supporting their families through tradition! Next time you are able to get up close and personal with a piece of Hill Tribe Silver, please reflect upon the time, energy and personal touch that went into making that bead, as well as the lack of modern tools and equipment. And let’s not forget how far that bead has traveled — from the Northern Hills of Thailand — to make a necklace standout and special!
Now that I found my goody box that I had hidden so well, it’s time for me to get my creative juices flowing and incorporate those beauties into my designs. What better way to get inspired! So please sign up to my newsletter so that I may let you know when my new additions will be hitting my website.
Today is Mardi Gras in Louisiana, especially in New Orleans. A lot of great memories come to mind on this particular day. One of them is when my grandmother would travel to New Orleans by bus for the Mardi Gras holidays in the early and mid-’50s to battle the crowds for trinkets for all of her grandchildren. Because she had many grandchildren, she would spread all of the “stuff” on the kitchen table and let each one of us pick out our favorites. My favorite was the glass tube beads that were made in the Czech Republic or whatever it was called back then. I remember that they were strung on very thin string and were very delicate. Some of them were broken and could cut your hands in a heartbeat. They were always tangled up in bunches and I would spend countless hours trying to get them apart. In fact, those glass beads were outlawed in short order because of the dangers they posed.
A couple of days ago I got an e-mail from a dealer wanting to know if I was interested in some old glass tube beads from bygone days of Mardi Gras. I couldn’t believe that any of these crazy glass strands survived. So I decided to purchase a few strands for my own collection for a pretty penny. I had forgotten how colorful and shiney they are. Not only do they bring back fond memories but they also make a historical statement. We seem to forget that oh-so-true statement of “nothing lasts forever.”
So the moral of the story is old and antique beads are getting harder and harder to find! And they are only going to get more expensive! Collectors are popping up everywhere, excavation sites are becoming limited and depleted, and good quality is going to be the exception. So if you take a liking to particular beads, amulets or gemstones, you should scoop them right up. They are not going to be with us forever!
In retrospect, I wish had kept my little Mardi Gras treasure trove for a whole bunch of reasons. Just remember — here today, gone tomorrow!
As I stated in my first blog, I would certainly welcome comments. But if you are like me and not real computer savvy, the Comments Section may be a little confusing. After you finish reading my blog, right below is the Posted Date, Uncategorized, and No Comments (it might show the number of comments already listed) Section.
Just click that Comments button and please enter: your comment, name and e-mail address (which will not be sent to anyone else) and fill in the website box with my web address — www.dphjewelry.com
That should do it.
I look forward to hearing what you have to say. Thanks! Debra
This is a first for me! I have finally given birth to my new website. While I am filled with excitement because now I am part of the “internet culture”, I am also a little anxious. But the thought of watching my website grow with additional creations and new customers is both stimulating and exhilarating!
So I hope you will continue to join me on a regular basis as I rant on my blog about Dare to be Different Jewelry Designs and who knows what else and also to keep an eye on my Collections and New Additions.
Feel free to send me a comment or two.
Over and out!
